The original recipe says I should be 1.033, but I am at 1.040. Preboil gravity kind shocked me at first. My predictions was to be at 6.3 so we appear to be on track. I didn’t measure out the marks on the kettle but they show a preboil volume of just shy of 6.5 gallons. And of course I didnt time it, but boil came at 2 ¾ hours after I started this morning, seems long.ĭidn’t know what to set my expected efficiency at so I left it at 80%. Took a bit longer to get to boil that I liked, but then again I was sitting there watching every move, so it probably wasn’t really as long as it felt. The wort looks almost as chunky as the mash. Made it thru, but I took the stirring route. Or do I stir a little knowing when I do I will be letting all the fine particles thru and into my wort? Do I just keep pouring the sparge in there? It would take 3-4 hours at this rate. And I have 4 gallons of sparge to send thru yet. Soon as you lift the basket of grain up out of the wort, everything inside is forced to the bottom grate, where it immediately turns to concrete and only letting any wort out in dribbles. The mechanics of this system really dont help it al all. As with every flat false bottom I’ve ever seen, its clogs up and either slows waaay down or stops. Ok dont like mashing in this thing at all. (going to be rapid fire reporting now as things are gonna start moving along faster) I am thinking a larger ratio would help here. In a previous test I only lost 3 degrees over the hour mash. I think this confirms that the top layer does not stay soaked with the warm wort. Was very surprised at first that the temp dropped 5 degrees in 30 min, but after a stir the temps were fine at 153. Just got back from stirring at the 30 min. Maybe kick the heat on if drops too low, but because of a pre-trial with water, I do not expect it too.Īm also heating my 4.15 gallons sparge in separate kettle with a single heatstick. (once a pump is in use this should be a non issue)īut since I am not using my pump, I am not going to run the heat. Will need to stir this a couple times during mash to get those top layers back into mash. Once I pushed my thermostat way down I got the same temp that was on the display. The water level is so low because of the dead space, the top layer of grain drains off and cools quickly. I found it tough to get a decent temp reading for some reason. Will surely have to up the mash ratio next time. (spoiler: OMG yes use a bag, don’t even screw around with out one)ĭough in was just as I expected, way to thick. Was going to use my mash bag, but decided to see what this thing does first, then decide if I want a bag. Not sure how long exactly as I came back and it was there. So I moved 1/2 gallon of the sparge water to the strike volume to give a bit more room. This recipe called for 2.5 gallon strike and the water looked really shallow. But there is a bit of dead space between the bottom of the basket and the bottom of the boiler/tun. I will be able to adjust later if necessaryĪt first I figured my mash ratio to 1.25, but. And I really didnt think that would be an issue. The only thing that seems to be a sticking point is the grain absorption. I know my kettle loss, I know my boil off (from several accounts), and I know what my fermenter volume. Its really the volumes that I’m trying to figure. I can hit a bit low and work my way up, but the temps BS gave were in fact close. Since this mash tun is heated, I dont really need to worry much about strike temp. So, I will go with mine and go from there That fact does not surprise me, and lots of online accounts seem to agree that the numbers given by BS are not right. What I am coming up with for water volumes on paper is not jiving with Beersmith numbers tell me.
#MASH AND BOIL BEERSMITH HOW TO#
I read the enclosed instructions on how to find how much water to use, but it just seemed like it would be inconsistent, so I made a new profile on BeerSmith. Just gonna do a simple pale ale with 8lbs of grain. Since my basement is a balmy 49 degrees F, I knew those temps would really affect heating times. I did however wrap with 2x layer of reflectix with 2 layers of 1/8th rubber foam between them. I wanna know what this thing can and cant do. I want to run this first batch pretty much stock to get baselines. And sure they surely can be for smaller gravity or smaller volume batches, but the way the instructions are written, its really a heated mash tun/boil vessel. I had initially thought these all-in-one brew systems as a hybrid Biab, with a sparge. Its more or less a Grainfather without the pump and chiller, (both of which I have) but about $500 less. I thought i would do a more detailed brew day report for this brew because I am running my first batch on the Brewers Edge Mash and Boil.
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